Today I can´t stop thinking about what I saw last night.
I am still in shock.
Last night driving back in a combi van to Parada de Lucas we drove past two dead bodies lying in the street. I hadn´t seem them at first but one of the passengers was shouting to the driver to warn him and to tell him to drive faster.
I couldn´t believe it, I still can´t.
At first I thought no, maybe they are just asleep. I know that sounds childish and was probably my way of coping with the reality I was faced with, but I can´t tell you the amount of times I have seen people sleeping rough, randomly in the middle of the pavement.
I think what shocks me the most is people´s reactions, or more, lack of reaction. They are so used to death, violence, gangs and guns that I feel like they don´t even blink when they see something like this. I said this to Bea´s God father who thank God was accompanying us home after the ceremony. He said to me that this is the reality that they live in, that they know that this is always a risk. Hell, I know it is always a risk but it doesn´t mean it doesn´t shock the hell out of me when I do see it.
I am also starting to understand more and more why people here don´t leave Parada de Lucas. Here things are controlled and Bea and her God father told me they wouldn´t see something like that where we live. Where we saw the body was part of another town nearby but there it´s like no mans land it seems.
I have always had a special love for Brazil but I can´t deny that I am seeing the worst side of this country. The gritty, harsh, violent reality that so many live in and are unable to escape from.
Sunday, November 18, 2012
Candomblé Ceremony
Last night I had my first encounter with the Candomblé religion and it was like nothing I had ever seen before!
Candomblé is very popular in Brazil, particularly in the north of Brazil in Bahia. It is based on African traditions that slaves brought over when they were shipped to Brazil. From what I understand as there is no concept of good or bad it is not always used in a positive way.
I was invited to this ceremony because Neuza, the director of CIACAC where I work was celebrating 7 years following this religion. When you complete 3 and 7 years there is a special ceremony and party. In true Brazilian style it consisted of music, dancing and eating!
I wasn´t quite sure what to expect about this ceremony. I had been told people go into trances and I suppose although I was trying to go with an open mind and was interested to see what happened I was imagining very dramatic scenes of people being possessed. I am glad to say it wasn`t like that.
We got there at 6pm and had to wait around for a while. Neuza had been at the centre for a week now doing a sort of retreat and we still wern´t allowed to see her but we knew she was in this little hut where people were dressing her and preparing her for the ceremony.
There were various parts to the ceremony including four costume changes. The whole act accompanied by the loud beat of drums and people dancing and singing in traditional dress. Each interval for a costume change was also a food and drink break so obviously I was kept happy. At various times the music got more intense and people started going into trances. I was getting slightly nervous by the guy who was sat near me going into a trance and seeing his eyes rolling in the back of his head! Those who went into trances were then led outside. Unfortunately I couldn´t go out to see how they brought them back to reality.
At the end of the ceremony everybody had to congratulate Neuza and then there was cake and at midnight we finally had dinner! Neuza will now stay a few more days at the centre and there are various things she can and can´t do. I must say hats off to the participants as they danced and sang for literally hours including a few children!
Genuinely a very enjoyable and interesting night as it was something I wouldn´t normally get the chance to experience but I think I am still a cynic about the trances. I will be curious to ask Neuza about that one....
Candomblé is very popular in Brazil, particularly in the north of Brazil in Bahia. It is based on African traditions that slaves brought over when they were shipped to Brazil. From what I understand as there is no concept of good or bad it is not always used in a positive way.
I was invited to this ceremony because Neuza, the director of CIACAC where I work was celebrating 7 years following this religion. When you complete 3 and 7 years there is a special ceremony and party. In true Brazilian style it consisted of music, dancing and eating! I wasn´t quite sure what to expect about this ceremony. I had been told people go into trances and I suppose although I was trying to go with an open mind and was interested to see what happened I was imagining very dramatic scenes of people being possessed. I am glad to say it wasn`t like that.
We got there at 6pm and had to wait around for a while. Neuza had been at the centre for a week now doing a sort of retreat and we still wern´t allowed to see her but we knew she was in this little hut where people were dressing her and preparing her for the ceremony.
There were various parts to the ceremony including four costume changes. The whole act accompanied by the loud beat of drums and people dancing and singing in traditional dress. Each interval for a costume change was also a food and drink break so obviously I was kept happy. At various times the music got more intense and people started going into trances. I was getting slightly nervous by the guy who was sat near me going into a trance and seeing his eyes rolling in the back of his head! Those who went into trances were then led outside. Unfortunately I couldn´t go out to see how they brought them back to reality.
At the end of the ceremony everybody had to congratulate Neuza and then there was cake and at midnight we finally had dinner! Neuza will now stay a few more days at the centre and there are various things she can and can´t do. I must say hats off to the participants as they danced and sang for literally hours including a few children!
Genuinely a very enjoyable and interesting night as it was something I wouldn´t normally get the chance to experience but I think I am still a cynic about the trances. I will be curious to ask Neuza about that one....
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